The world, according to Oscar Daly
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Italy — The Dispatches

Rome

Ran an empire, then became the headquarters of a religion — and it's still the only city on earth with an entire sovereign country, the Vatican, walled off inside it. A gladiatorial arena marooned in the traffic, the Pantheon's concrete dome standing since Hadrian, and long lunches down the Trastevere lanes. Ancient everything, basically.

Visited November 202541.90°N 12.50°EAPT FCO★ Featured
Rome
Fig. 1 — RomePhotograph · O. Daly

Top recommendations

3 picks
Colosseum

Colosseum

Rome's gladiatorial arena — worth the earliest skip-the-line slot.

The Vatican

The Vatican

St Peter's and the Sistine Chapel, best done in one very early morning.

Luciano Cucina Italiana

Luciano Cucina Italiana

The best carbonara in the world.

Where to eat

11 entries

Pizza

Ivo a TrastevereApple ↗·Google ↗

Pizza · Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158

Takeaway pizza

Historia PantheonApple ↗·Google ↗

Dinner overlooking the Pantheon

Roman classics in Trastevere

Luciano Cucina ItalianaApple ↗·Google ↗

Fresh pasta

Roman-Jewish cuisine in the Ghetto

Classic Roman cooking by the Forum

Where to drink

1 entry
The Court Bar — Palazzo ManfrediApple ↗·Google ↗

Cocktails with a Colosseum view. Needs booking in advance — if you're taking another half, you really should do this one.

What to do

21 entries
Sistine ChapelApple ↗·Google ↗
St Peter's BasilicaApple ↗·Google ↗
Walking tourApple ↗·Google ↗
Trevi FountainApple ↗·Google ↗
Spanish StepsApple ↗·Google ↗
Galleria Doria PamphiljApple ↗·Google ↗
Villa Doria PamphiljApple ↗·Google ↗

Rome's largest park

The Vatican GardensApple ↗·Google ↗

Book ahead

Apostolic PalaceApple ↗·Google ↗
Palazzo della Civiltà ItalianaApple ↗·Google ↗
Vittorio Emanuele II MonumentApple ↗·Google ↗
Dome of St Peter's BasilicaApple ↗·Google ↗
Pincio TerraceApple ↗·Google ↗
Giardino degli AranciApple ↗·Google ↗
Terrazza sul ForoApple ↗·Google ↗

Via Monte Tarpeo

Giardinetto del Monte OppioApple ↗·Google ↗
Passeggiata del GianicoloApple ↗·Google ↗
Fontana dell'Acqua PaolaApple ↗·Google ↗

The gallery

8 postcards
Rome — photo 1
Rome — photo 2
Rome — photo 3
Rome — photo 4
Rome — photo 5
Rome — photo 6
Rome — photo 7
Rome — photo 8