The world, according to Oscar Daly
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Cambodia — The Dispatches

Siem Reap

Gateway to Angkor — the old capital of the Khmer Empire, where Angkor Wat stands as the largest religious monument on earth. The town is dusty and easygoing; the draw is what surrounds it — temples swallowed by jungle, the stone faces of the Bayon, stilted villages on the Tonlé Sap, and cold beer on Pub Street after a dawn start. Sunrise temples, then a cold one.

Visited July 201613.36°N 103.86°EAPT SAI
Siem Reap
Fig. 1 — Siem ReapPhotograph · O. Daly

Top recommendations

3 picks
Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

The great temple at the heart of the Khmer Empire, raised in the early 1100s and ringed by a vast moat — its five lotus-bud towers built to echo the peaks of Mount Meru. Come at sunrise, before the heat and the umbrellas.

Angkor Thom & the Bayon

Angkor Thom & the Bayon

The last great walled capital of the empire, its Bayon temple carved with some 200 giant, half-smiling stone faces. Quietest just after opening, before the tour buses.

Chong Khneas floating village

Chong Khneas floating village

The nearest floating village on the Tonlé Sap — a whole community afloat, with houses, a crocodile farm and even a Catholic church riding on the water. Best in the late-afternoon light.

Where to drink

1 entry

The bar-and-neon strip in the old market quarter

What to do

3 entries
Banteay SreiApple ↗·Google ↗

The pink-sandstone temple famous for its fine carving, out past the main group

Zip-lining through the Angkor forest — now Angkor Zipline

Grassroots school in the slums — always after volunteers

The gallery

10 postcards
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