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Croatia — The Dispatches

Zagreb

Croatia's small, walkable capital, split between a Habsburg lower town and a medieval upper one — linked by the shortest funicular in the world, all 66 metres of it. An old town of tiled roofs and hand-lit gas lamps, the genuinely brilliant Museum of Broken Relationships, a Museum of Hangovers, and café tables spilling across Tkalčićeva. Underrated, and cheaper than its neighbours.

Visited July 202545.81°N 15.98°EAPT ZAG
Zagreb
Fig. 1 — ZagrebPhotograph · O. Daly

Top recommendations

3 picks
St. Mark's Church

St. Mark's Church

The upper-town church, coats-of-arms tiled onto its roof.

Zagreb Cathedral

Zagreb Cathedral

The twin-spired neo-Gothic cathedral, the city's tallest.

Croatian National Theatre

Croatian National Theatre

The yellow neo-baroque opera house on its own square.

Where to eat

2 entries
KAI Street Food BarApple ↗·Google ↗
Cogito CoffeeApple ↗·Google ↗

Specialty coffee

Where to drink

2 entries
The Garden BreweryApple ↗·Google ↗
Bacchus jazz barApple ↗·Google ↗

What to do

8 entries
Museum of Broken RelationshipsApple ↗·Google ↗
Museum of HangoversApple ↗·Google ↗
Tunnel GričApple ↗·Google ↗

WWII tunnel under the old town

Botanical gardenApple ↗·Google ↗
Zagreb CathedralApple ↗·Google ↗
St. Mark's ChurchApple ↗·Google ↗

Famous tiled roof

Tržnica DolacApple ↗·Google ↗

Farmers' market

Croatian National TheatreApple ↗·Google ↗

The gallery

3 postcards
Zagreb — photo 1
Zagreb — photo 2
Zagreb — photo 3